Day 23: Camp 2 and back to BC

What a great feeling of fulfilling and job well done!

After a longer than expected descent (arriving 20:30 to our tent), we are now ready to slowly climb down to Base Camp to start packing and make our way down to the valley.

Only 3 of us managed to get to the summit. The climb was harder than expected and although our decision of not using Camp  3 (attempting from Camp 2) has proven the correct one, it has been an exhausting climbing day.

 

Day 22: Summit!

With an early start from Camp 2 we manage to climb steady for most of the night until the Sun came up. From there we were just 4 hours away from Camp 3, where we didn’t stop more than 10 minutes before heading to the top, a 65 degree ice and snow slow of 800 meters.

We finally set foot on the top at 13:00 after nearly 8 hours of hard work climbing!

From the summit down we needed more than 7 hours to reach Camp 2 again. The descent has more than 30 rappels that we did in the dark.

Only 3 people out of 8 summited.

More info and photos to follow. My iphone stop taking pictures at 6000m!

Thank you for all messages of suppor – Pepe

Day 21: C1 to C2

We are now in Camp 2. It took us close to 2 hours from Camp 1 and to access here you need to climb the famous Yellow Tower. Camp 2 is located on a thin ridge on top of massive granite tower.

First thing is to find ice to melt and fill as many Nalgene bottles as possible for tomorrow. We are planning to leave early tonight from 03:00 AM in order to get to the summit and back in daylight.

All the gear is ready and we are going into our sleeping bags dressed and ready to go in the morning. I am putting the inner boots inside the sleeping bag so they don’t freeze during the night.

Every one is ready for tomorrow. Boil-in-the-bag meal and by 19:30 we are sleeping. Tomorrow is going to be a long day…

Day 20: Camp 1

The countdown commences! today we are moving up the mountain from Base Camp to Camp 1 for a quick night night sleep before we head to Camp 2 for the final summit bid.

The trek to the 5,840 mark is taking me nearly 4 hours, including a 10 min break in at the ABC (5,450m)

Because the strong winds of up to 120 km/h we had been postponing the summit bid for a couple of days but tomorrow the forecast is good and should have a half decent day.

Thanks to 5 Jotas Ham – one of my sponsors – we had a couple of great nights enjoying one of the best quality hams in the world. 😉

Day 19: Summit Bid tomorrow

We were waiting for the last 4 days a window of decent weather for our summit bid and today we agreed to attempt the summit on Sunday AM.

Tomorrow we leave BC early in the morning to sleep in Camp 1, and then Saturday Camp 2 for an early attempt on Sunday.

This time we are not using Camp 3 because the poor conditions of the snow ridge makes it quite unestable so from Camp 2 it is.

I estimate a 9 to 10 hour to the Summit and 3-5 hours to get back to Camp 2, but conditions can change the plans. In any case we are starting the climb at 04:00.

 pg_amadablam Image courtesy of Philippegatta.fr